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DENIZENS OF THE ROCKS: LEOPARDS OF JAWAI.

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  The leopard is a magnificent animal. Of all the great cats the leopard stands out, beautifully proportioned, agile, ferocious, cunning and a survivor, adapts well to any terrain as well as human onslaughts. Be it forests, scrub-lands, rocky mountains or even the frigid Himalayas, leopards thrive everywhere. The female F 2 Leopards are elusive creatures and a mere sight of them is considered lucky. In certain terrains, however, for example, rocky mountains with scrub vegetation, it is easier to see them as they inhabit caves that abound in the rocks and then they may be seen for extended periods of time. One such place is Jawai, in Pali district of Rajasthan where leopard safaris have become very popular in the past few years. The Jawai bandh leopard conservation reserve was notified in 2010, and covers approximately 20 square kms area. It has a high density of leopards with an estimated 50 to 60 individuals. Most of this land is privately owned with resorts in the core are...

A Buried Slice of History: The Turki Kabaristan of Sumerpur, Rajasthan

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 I hadn’t expected to find a forgotten Ottoman graveyard in a small town in Rajasthan. Yet there it was — quiet, neglected, and holding stories from a war fought more than a century ago. Sumerpur, a small town in the Pali district of Rajasthan, lies on the north bank of the Jawai River. Established in 1912 and named after Maharaja Sumer Singh of Jodhpur, it is today better known as a base for the leopard safaris of Jawai. Few visitors, however, are aware that this unassuming town once housed a prisoner-of-war camp during the First World War. In 1915, at the request of the British government, the Maharaja of Jodhpur permitted a POW camp to be set up in Sumerpur to hold Ottoman prisoners captured during the war. The camp stood on a vast plain bordered by rocky hills and intersected by the Jawai River — a river that ran dry in summer, before the earthen dam (constructed between 1946 and 1957) transformed the region’s water supply. According to historical records, the camp held o...

A Cozy Café, Street Art & a Kebab Fest

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 On a recent visit to Delhi, I found myself with some time on my hands before a dinner engagement with a former medical school classmate, now a renowned surgeon in the city. I decided to visit the nearby Lodi Gardens, where I spent a happy couple of hours rambling through its sprawling expanse—a walk I have narrated in a previous blog. On my way back, I passed the Meteorological Observatory and the rather officious-looking Mausam Bhavan on Lodi Road. Its walls, however, were enlivened by a pleasing collection of street art. Among the paintings was even a rainy-day scene at CST station (the erstwhile Victoria Terminus) in Mumbai. Street art has always fascinated me; apart from its aesthetic appeal, it adroitly conceals layers of grime and dust, making the locality appear more cheerful and colourful. It was a cold, foggy evening in early January, with the temperature hovering around 11°C. Though well protected against the chill, I had worked up a healthy appetite after my walk i...

THE REALM OF SULTANS: LODI GARDEN, NEW DELHI

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  During a recent visit to Delhi , I was fortunate to be put up at the India Habitat Centre , a multi-purpose building that was built with the aim of bringing together individuals and Institutions working in diverse habitat and environment related fields. Located a stone’s throw away from Lodi garden, it gave me the perfect opportunity to spend a few hours exploring one of Delhi’s most historic green spaces before a dinner engagement with a college friend. The Lodi garden in New Delhi is a large artificially created park spread over 90 acres, making it a significant green lung in the heart of Lutyen’s Delhi . It was created in 1936 in the village of Khairpur by relocating the villagers and was named Lady Willingdon garden after the wife of the then Viceroy of British India, Lord Willingdon . Following India’s independence, it was renamed Lodi Garden, a more fitting title given that it serves as the final resting place of several kings of the late Delhi Sultanate . The present l...

A Chowkdi, invigorating tea and four roads to abundance: A birding trip to Nal Sarovar.

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 Nal Sarovar is a large freshwater lake of about 120 sq kms, located 64 kms west of Ahmedabad and is during winter, home to more than 250 species of birds, many of them water birds that migrate long distances from the frigid northern parts of Asia and can be viewed at close quarters in the many boats that used to ply on the lake. It was declared as a bird sanctuary in 1969 and was included as a Ramsar site in 2012. I had been wanting to visit Nal Sarovar since long but it was only recently that I managed to do so as part of a meticulously planned trip by Nature India under the able leadership of Adesh Shivkar. Nal Sarovar had always been a tourist hotspot as it is proximate to Ahmedabad, with delightful boating on the expansive lake and outlets that serve delectable Kathiawadi cuisine. Serious birding has been a latter development, fuelled by the growing numbers of birders and by the proliferation of numerous professional guides who take their work most seriously. I was a ta...

A LANDMARK, A PLEASANT SURPRISE & CHARCUTERIE

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  A LANDMARK, A PLEASANT SURPRISE & CHARCUTERIE Recently I completed sixty-five years of existence in this world. It is a landmark for most people, and for me as well. Although I do not intend to stop working, I have resolved that from now on I will work only when it is pleasurable and stress-free. I have also made a few resolutions as I begin this new phase of life—chief among them is training myself to notice the small things that bring joy. No celebration was planned and my wife and I were to have a quiet evening at home with the youngsters (my son and daughter-in-law). While we expected them in the evening, I was taken aback when they arrived, heavily loaded with bags of goodies, each carefully sourced after meticulous research to prepare and serve a Charcuterie! Food has always been a source of pleasure for me. I was more of a gourmand in my earlier years; with age, I find myself becoming a gourmet instead. This thoughtful surprise was therefore the perfect bir...